Mining the girnal for type 1 motivation


That’s what the scale read this morning.  I stared at it in slight disbelief, but then I recalled the number of cookies I had yesterday, then I recalled the heavy brunch from the day before.  Lastly I recalled the words of a good friend nine years ago.  “Fuck man.  You used to be skinny, what the hell happened to you!?”  At the time I was close to two bills.  Obviously, I’m not close to that now, but weight — or rather over eating– is a problem for me.  My scale is easily tipped in either direction, both a blessing and a curse.

My climbing is strongly affected by the amount of weight I carry around my mid section.  That could be one reason I’ve been struggling to climb V3, a grade I used to flash and onsight on a routine basis.  Well, that’s one of the reasons anyway.

I spent most of the morning feeling bad about this, then I decided to suck it up, find out what I was doing before I got involved in pack making, before my life fell apart.  I took this call to action, walked across the room and grabbed my training journal from that time to see what I was up to.  I knew that it didn’t have anything to do with my diet because I’ve always been a sweets junkie.  I knew something else had to be going on.  My sleuthing revealed this: I WAS WORKING MY ASS OFF!!!!!

A typical week looked like this:
Sunday: Climb\hang board ~ 3 hours
Monday: Weight room, run (sometimes 2x a day)
Tuesday: Climb\hang board ~ 3 hours
Wednesday: Active rest day–typically riding my bike to and from work
Thursday: Climb\ hang board ~3 hours
Friday: Circuit workout at home
Saturday: Rest\Family day

Following that schedule felt great.  I never felt like I was over trained.  I had plenty of energy, though I have to admit to letting other things fall by the wayside, contributing to my life falling apart.  At the time, like now I was climbing well below my true level, but my head was quickly catching up.  This program took me from leading 5.7 to onsighting 5.10bs (in my style of course).   I followed this program for 4 weeks followed by a one week of active rest that involved riding a different, longer path to work and maybe throw in a circuit workout.   The next Sunday I would jump right back in.

Over twenty-five weeks my weight dropped from 170 to a very very skinny 147!  I don’t want to drop back down to that weight, since the lack of body fat will lead to freezing during bivies.  However, I do climb a lot harder when I’m at that weight.  At that weight my face was skinny, but I didn’t have a six pack, so maybe… That said I think 155 is probably a good compromise for me.

How does this apply to type 1 motivation you may ask?  Type 1 motivation comes from inside of you and can only be of value when you take an honest look at where you stand.  Seeing my weight on the scale this morning could have sent me on a downward spiral.  One where I beat myself up, sending me down the road to laying on the couch eating bon-bons.  Lucky for me I got over that quickly.

Only by going back and reminding myself of where I’ve been and what I’m capable of was I able to find that pure type 1 motivation.  Something I’ve been lacking lately.   Maybe I’ll grow out of One Finger Campus Guy sooner than I thought.

Can you tell I’ve been reading a self help book???


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